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Péče o vlasy a poradenství

Vše o poréznosti vlasů a proč na ní záleží

Pokud kondicionujete a hydratujete, ale vaše vlasy jsou stále suché a krepaté, možná je čas udělat test pórovitosti vlasů.

Pórovitost je schopnost vašich vlasů zadržovat a absorbovat vlhkost. Stejně jako váš typ vlasů , genetika většinou určuje pórovitost vlasů, ale na pórovitost vlasů mohou mít vliv i jiné faktory, jako je chemické ošetření, počasí a tepelný styling. 

Je důležité znát pórovitost vašich vlasů, abyste si mohli vybrat ty nejlepší produkty a přísady, které vám pomohou léčit a udržovat zdraví vašich vlasů a potřeby vlasů. Znalost pórovitosti vlasů vám také pomůže lépe porozumět tomu, jak si vlasy upravovat a jaké techniky používat (tj. tepelný styling nefunguje u všech typů poréznosti vlasů). Znát pórovitost vlasů se nemusí tolik mluvit jako znát svůj typ vlasů, ale je stejně důležité, pokud si chcete udržet zdravé a silné vlasy.

Jaké jsou různé typy poréznosti vlasů?

Existují tři typy pórovitosti vlasů: nízká, normální a vysoká.

Vlas s nízkou pórovitostí znamená, že kutikula leží naplocho na vnější straně a brání vstřebávání vody nebo vlhkosti do pramenů. Snadno poznáte, že máte nízkou pórovitost, pokud vašim vlasům trvá déle schnout nebo se vám zdá, že se do vlasů hromadí produkty místo toho, aby splývaly. Vlasy s nízkou pórovitostí nejsou nutně nezdravé, jen nejsou správně hydratovány. 

Vlasy s normální porézností mají kutikuly, které jsou volnější, což umožňuje snadnější pronikání vlhkosti do pramenů.

Vysoká poréznost znamená, že kolem kutikuly může dojít k natržení nebo poškození, které může být způsobeno mimo jiné chemickým ošetřením vlasů nebo tepelným stylingem. Znamená to také, že vlasy mohou produkt snadno a rychle nasáknout, což znamená, že obvykle musíte použít více, abyste viděli jeho účinky. I u vysoce porézních vlasů může rychle absorbovat produkt, ale nemusí to nutně znamenat, že jsou hydratované nebo správně vyživené. 

Jak udělat test pórovitosti vlasů

Určení pórovitosti vlasů bude základem pro vaše rozhodnutí o produktu a rutinní péči o vlasy , aby vaše vlasy získaly potřebnou vlhkost. Zatímco pórovitost vlasů je důležitá pro všechny typy vlasů, dívky s kudrnatými a vlnitými vlasy by si měly být vědomy svého typu pórovitosti, protože kudrnaté vlasy mají tendenci snadněji vysychat. Kudrnaté vlasy mají přirozenou tendenci k vysušování, protože přírodní oleje, které vaše pokožka hlavy produkuje, mohou po pramínku rovných vlasů cestovat mnohem snadněji než kudrnaté. Takže i u zdravých a normálních porézních vlasů je vlhkost vždy nezbytná.

Test pórovitosti vlasů neboli float test je super jednoduchý, vše, co potřebujete, je čistá sklenice vody a pár pramenů vlasů. Nejlepší je to udělat, když jsou vaše vlasy suché a bez produktu. Vyčešte si vlasy a vezměte prameny, které se vysypaly, a vložte je do čiré sklenice nebo misky s vodou.

Pokud vaše prameny klesnou ke dnu, mají vysokou poréznost a absorbují veškerou vlhkost. Pokud váš pramen zůstane pod povrchem, ale plave nad dnem misky, vaše vlasy jsou dobře vyvážené a mají normální pórovitost. Pokud pramen vlasů plave nad hladinou vody, vaše vlasy mají nízkou poréznost a nesnadno absorbují vlhkost.

Another option is the strand test. This works especially well if you have curly hair. To do the strand test, gently stretch a tiny section of curl strands from different areas of your head – front hairline, crown or temple. Place the stretched curl between your thumb and finger and slide it up the hair strand from the tip towards your scalp. If your fingers move easily up the strand and it feels dense and hard, you have low porosity hair. If it feels smooth, you have normal porosity hair. If the strand feels rough, dry, or it breaks, you have high porosity hair.

For low porosity hair avoid heavy, thick products and single ingredient thicker oils. While you want to retain moisture, you also want to avoid build-up.

For low porosity hair, the key is to help strands retain moisture. This starts with your wash routine. Minimize shampoo and conditioning to 1-2 times a week. Before stepping into the shower or washing the hair use an oil first that can penetrate strands and help moisture lock in before cleansing.

To get the most out of products, try applying them while the hair is damp and ensure products are evenly distributed to prevent build-up.

Jojoba oil is a great option for low porosity hair because it helps to lock in moisture and also helps to create shine and promote growth. This jojoba oil comes in three different sizes.

Avocado oil also helps low porosity hair when pre-shampooing. Apply avocado oil before your wash routine or use as a mask once a week. NaturAll Nourishing Avocado Leave-In is a product to try.

People with low porosity hair may find they may need more than one chemical treatment when coloring, straightening, or curling their hair, but repeating several chemical treatments can be heavily damaging. Make sure to use products for color-treated hair and moisturizing treatments to help lock the style in, but also maintain the health of your hair.

How to care for normal porosity hair

Lucky you! Normal porosity hair requires less maintenance, however there are steps to take to ensure your hair stays in the “normal” healthy range. Deep conditioning and detox masks once a week or once every two weeks depending on your hair type would certainly help your hair maintain its strong ability to absorb and retain moisture along with preventing any product build-up. African Pride Moisture Miracle Coconut Oil & Baobab Oil Leave-In Hair Cream is a great 2-in-1 product that helps to detox and moisturize your medium or normal porous hair.

Hair masks also don’t have to come off the shelf from your drug or beauty store. We’ve put together 7 DIY hair masks that are great for medium porous hair. 

For high porosity hair it’s best to avoid sulfates, parabens, silicones, and sodium laureth sulfates. These ingredients can pull natural oils from your hair which it needs for strength and growth.

With highly porous hair, it’s common to experience dryness, shedding and hair that breaks easily. The cuticle around the hair strand is damaged, so while moisture will penetrate it will not be retained, drying out the strands. For highly porous hair, it’s best to avoid heat styling and treatments high in chemicals that can continue to dry out the hair. If you often use color treatments or relaxer treatments for curly and coily hair, these processes break down and damage your cuticles leading to highly porous hair. To help treat high porosity hair, look to hair masks, oils, and products that will provide moisture and help repair the damaged cuticles.

Coconut oil is great for people with high porosity hair as it blocks the cuticles and prevents water from flooding into the strands too quickly, helping your strands to retain moisture. This SheaMoisture 100% Virgin Coconut Oil Leave-in Conditioner Treatment is great as a mask or as a pre-shampoo and conditioner treatment.

Hair care tips of all hair porosities

Whether you have low, normal or high porosity hair, there are a few universal hair care rules to follow for all hair types. It’s also important to note, the seasons may also impact your hair. Exposure to UV can dry out the hair and scalp impacting porosity, as well as cold, dry weather. You may need to adjust your hair routine according to the seasons, but otherwise maintaining your hair’s moisture is essential for good hair health all year-round.

  • Minimize heat styling and use a heat protectant before blow-drying, curling or straightening.
  • Limit chemical treatments like coloring and relaxing when possible. Schedule these appointments two to three times a year at a maximum if possible and be sure to be extra vigilant with the hair care advice according to your hair porosity to keep chemically treated hair healthy. For more tips on how to treat colored hair, check out these tips. For hair care advice and information about chemically relaxing your hair, check out this article.

Hair extensions and hair porosity

Whether for low or highly porous hair, hair extensions are a chemical-free way to experiment not just with color, but with different textures, lengths, and styles. Luxy Hair’s Balayage and Ombre Extensions are clipped-in and are the fastest, easiest, and safest way to play with color with your natural look while also adding length and fullness in just minutes. Hair extensions can be styled before applying which not only saves your natural hair from heat but makes getting ready easier and faster. The best part about hair extensions is being able to experiment without the damage for a refreshed look and sun-kissed dimension, or try out new hair trends like reverse balayage.

SHOP SEAMLESS HAIR EXTENSIONS

Hair porosity is just one category that helps to fully determine your hair type. Density, elasticity and texture all play a part and are important to understand your unique hair needs. It isn’t enough to keep using the same products and same process year after year. The hair porosity test is an easy one to do to “check in” with your hair health. Understanding the type of hair you have and your hair porosity means putting time and money into products and treatments that will actually work for your hair and help your hair to absorb and retain the moisture it needs for healthy, strong and shiny hair.

Written by: Rosalyn Solomon

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